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Monday, 28 August 2006
One of the traditional "Bordeaux varietals", Malbec has characteristics that fall somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
One of the traditional "Bordeaux varietals", Malbec has characteristics that fall somewhere between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  A midseason ripener, it can bring a very deep, ink-like color plus ample tannins and a particular plum-like flavor component that adds complexity to Meritage blends.

It is known in much of France as Côt.  Since Malbec at one time was widely planted all over the country, it had hundreds of other names.  Sensitivity to frost is the primary reason Malbec has become a decreasing factor in most of France. Although plantings in the Medoc have decreased by over two-thirds since the mid-twentieth century, Malbec is now the dominant red varietal in the Cahors area. The Appellation Controlée regulations for Cahors require a minimum content of 70%.

Malbec truly comes into its own in Argentina, where it is the major red varietal planted.  Much of the Malbec vines there were transplanted from Europe prior to the outbreak of phylloxera and most is therefore ungrafted, on its own rootstock.  Sadly, over the years, the bug has infested Argentina, too, and vineyards are being replanted on resistant rootstock.

Argentines often spell it "Malbeck" and make wines from it that are similar in flavor to those made in Europe, but with a softer, lusher structure, more like California Merlot.  Another difference: where French examples are usually considered short-lived, Argentine Malbecs seem to age fairly well.

Malbec is also planted in California, and there's relatively little and recent acreage in Chile and Australia.   This grape is usually blended with other red varietals.  Successful Malbec growers claim that, in order to develop full maturity and distinction, Malbec needs "hang time" even after sugar levels indicate ripeness. Otherwise, immature Malbec can be very "green" tasting, without its characteristic notes of plum and anise.

 
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