Learning Center

Mad About Merlot

Monday, 28 August 2006

Okay everyone, take a deep breath and let us step out of Hollywood and back into reality. Okay everyone, take a deep breath and let us step out of Hollywood and back into reality.  Forgive the reference to the movie Sideways once again, but Pinot Noir and Merlot are still a hot topic in the tasting room.  We have noticed that Merlot is actually gaining some sympathy of late due to the unfair accusations against its well-earned and long history of excellence.  Although, Pinot Noir is an elegant wine and worthy of due praise, it does not stand alone nor will its present glory last forever.  Conversely, Merlot has a rich and long history that deserves some acknowledgement. The Merlot grape is a red Bordeaux that is somewhat similar to another red Bordeaux grape, Cabernet Sauvignon.  However, Merlot is generally lower in tannins and produces a wine that is softer, more fruit-driven and matures faster.  It is often used in blends with other varietals for its softening abilities.  Its low acidity and astringency produces a softer mouth feel, which can compliment the most sophisticated of palates.  Merlot grows better than its cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon, in a little cooler climate, which makes Monterey County a great candidate for its production.   Merlot came to the states in the mid 1860’s and became quite popular in the mid 1990’s.   There are over 50,000 acres in California alone and it is by far the most widely planted grape in Bordeaux!  According to Fred McMillin, a veteran wine writer, “Little was learned in the 1980s, as plantings started and finished the decade at around 650 acres.  Then, in the next seven years, the figure shot up to 3,200. The vintners were making their move.” Currently, Monterey County grows 5,550 acres of Merlot.  Merlot does have its flaws.  It has relatively thin skins and therefore is prone to rot.  The quality can be reduced if more than 6 tons per acre is grown.  Most merlots do not have the ability to age more than 5-8 years.  Because of its rapid maturation, Merlot is better for the wine drinker as Cabernet is better for the collector.  The least palatable Merlot can be dry, yet thin in both taste and texture and, in truth, can be unpleasant.  The early days of Monterey Merlot experienced a case of the veggies (strong vegetable nose), but with careful selection of soil and climate, beautiful fruit forward as well as smooth fragrant selections are gracing our tables.  Realistically, most experiences will be both enjoyable and complimentary with any meal.   In all fairness, all varietals are good given the proper growing conditions and expertise of the winemaker.  Each wine has a place at the table…even White Zin. Honestly! Merlot has earned its place on the shelves.  Back in June 2004, A Taste of Monterey held a people’s choice blind tasting.  Here are a few Monterey Favorites:   Gold - 1999 Baywood Reserve Silver - 2001 De Tierra Silver (tied) - 2000 Jekel Bronze - 2001 Shale Ridge   A couple of other popular Merlots to keep in mind are the Delicato Family Vineyard Select (Those of you who are members of the Reserve Club can experience this Merlot in the September shipment.  It is smooth with big luscious fruit.) In addition, Bocage (This Merlot was hard to keep on the shelf after its release in Club Taste several months back.  At $13 dollars a bottle, it is a pleasure to drink everyday!) And this month Club Taste and Club Red member will taste the ever-popular Baywood Merlot, sorry Club Blanc.   So grab a bottle of Merlot and create your own box office hit.  Besides, it’s the amateurs who have accepted the Hollywood hype that paints Merlot as the unfit fruit.  Let’s stick it to them.  Get your case of Merlot today!

 

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