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This time of year in Monterey, when the fishing’s good, it has been said that when a fishermen burps, he’ll smell of salmon. Your truly has been guilty of that a time or two.  As one who enjoys soaking my line from time to time, I can tell you firsthand that waking up at 4:00am just to bob up and down on a sometime chilly ocean for countless hours with your friends an activity that rivals few.  Thankfully, I can attest that in years past, some fishing adventures we actually caught some fish.  And admittedly, after a long day of fishing, no matter how tired I am the tradition is to barbeque a potion of the catch.  Weather I am hungry, tired, delirious or just that the salmon is so fresh, but for some reason that is the tastiest fish I have enjoyed. 

Here in Monterey, we are blessed to have access to some of the world’s finest produce, seafood and wine.  When all three are brought together on your dinner table, well let’s just say, it just doesn’t get much better than that.   
March 31st marked the start of the 2003 central coast non-commercial salmon season.  For those locals who do not fish or have fishing friends of the family, the average person can get a taste of local salmon when the commercial season starts a month or so later.  The salmon caught locally is mostly King (Chinook) and some Silver.   However, it is unlikely you’ll find Monterey Bay caught salmon outside the Central Coast of California.  You are more likely to find a wide variety of choices like Atlantic, Icelandic, Chilean Atlantic, Alaskan, Pacific and more specific Cooper River.   But really, there are two basic species of salmon: Pacific and Atlantic. Both are indigenous to the Northern Hemisphere. Pacific salmon die after spawning once; Atlantic salmon do not.  Atlantic salmon’s flesh is a pale reddish-orange color and is lean which makes for prime lox (cold smoked/cured).  Conversely, the Pacific salmon can have brighter colored flesh and it is more fatty, great for the barbeque.   

After years of battling chilly, turbulent ocean waters, the fish will have lean, firm flesh that is marbled with fat. Another insulating layer of fat is just under the skin. Salmon's brilliant reddish-orange hue stems from its diet of crustaceans and marine plant life.  In the fall, salmon have the urge to return to their fresh water river birth home to spawn.
According to the National Fisheries Institute, across America salmon is the third most popular season behind shrimp and tuna.  This is due, in part, to salmon's status as a nutrient-dense fish.  Salmon is a flavorful food with all the following health benefits. Salmon contains far less saturated fat than an equal portion of virtually any other meat or poultry.  Salmon is an excellent source of beneficial polyunsaturated Omega-3 fatty acids which new studies have shown to reduce the risk of cardiac arrest.  Salmon contains Vitamin D to help fight osteoporosis.  Salmon contains Vitamins A, B and carotenoids (all of which help protect against cancer and strengthen the immune system).  Recently, the American Heart Association's revised Dietary Guidelines recommended consuming at least two servings (three to five ounces each) per week of seafood high in Omega-3 fatty acids for cardio-protective effect.  Combined with wine’s antioxidants and other cardio-health benefits when consumed moderately, and are there overwhelming reasons to partake wine with salmon, regularly.  
Your Inner Sommelier

It has been said that there is no better wine and food combination than to match up salmon with Pinot Noir.  Of course, there are variations on the way you prepare, season and serve the salmon that may call for a different wine.  However, for the most part, as a general rule of thumb, you can’t go wrong with Pinot Noir and salmon.  Oddly enough, the more I experiment with wine and food pairings, the less I am impressed with these “rules”.   In fact, just the other day, I attended a Monterey County Hospitality Association luncheon at Bernardus Lodge, and I enjoyed poached Salmon placed in a pool of herb cream sauce served with a 1997 Bernardus Marinus.  The two made for a delicious meal.  Experiment for yourself with many varietals but, you may want to have a bottle of Salmon-friendly Pinot Noir ready to go just in case.       
Your Inner Fish Monger

Look for salmon that is bright, firm to the touch and very well chilled. Fresh salmon has a fresh seaweed scent, never fishy; it will "give" slightly when you press it, then spring back. Salmon steaks are a perfect portion size. Fillets are elegant and easy to eat since they are virtually bone-free.  Whole salmon is economical when you are serving more than four.  Once home, keep your salmon fresh by storing it in the coldest part of the refrigerator for up to two days. If you will not be cooking the salmon within two days, re-wrap it well and freeze it. Use within 4 to 5 months.

Remove surface bacteria by giving the fish a rinse under cold running water; dry with paper towel. Surface bacteria can cause "off" odors during cooking.

Your Inner chef

Intense spices and flavors (ginger, chilies, teriyaki, garlic) "brighten" the flavor of salmon.  By pairing more assertive seasonings with more assertive cooking methods (broiling, roasting, searing, barbecuing) your salmon will take on a mahogany, crunchy exterior that flakes to reveal a succulent interior.  The flavorful "brown notes" produced by these cooking methods pair easily with a wide variety of wines.

Just a few simple steps will guarantee perfectly cooked salmon every time. Pre-heat oven, broiler, barbecue, or fry pan to medium-high (oven between 425°-450°F).  Measure salmon at its thickest point, cook salmon 10 minutes per inch of thickness, turning once halfway through cooking time. Time carefully. Salmon is perfectly cooked when the flesh is firm, opaque and still moist. The best test of doneness: Press lightly with a fork and watch the flesh separate easily.