Learning Center

Wine and Mexican Food

Monday, 28 August 2006

¿El Vino Con Cocina Mexicana? If you are like those of us in Central California, Mexican food is consumed several times a month throughout the year, not just on Cinco de Mayo.  But, Mexican food with wine?  ¿El Vino Con Cocina Mexicana? If you are like those of us in Central California, Mexican food is consumed several times a month throughout the year, not just on Cinco de Mayo.  But, Mexican food with wine?   In doing a little internet research of this subject, I discovered there is very little written about it.  And, what I did find was a basic regurgitation of the same information.  In a nutshell, avoid tannic wines like Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, as the tannin will add heat to the fire in your mouth.  Crisp whites like un-oaked Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blanc, Sparkling wines (Champagne) and off-dry wines like Riesling and Chenin Blanc go very well, as the acidity, bubbles and/or sweetness provide a refreshing sensation to your palate.  That is all I came up after one hour of broadband surfing on the subject. As Paul Harvey says, now here is the rest of the story.  Mexican food is not always spicy hot.  Full-flavored yes, hot, not always.  If you have spent any time in Mexico, like I have, you’ll notice or taste a wide variety of flavors.  Even the basic staples like beans, rice, salsa and tortillas vary greatly within the country.  Regional food styles vary and each area is home to its own specialties.  For example, food in the north focuses on simpler styles.  Whereas along the coasts, the cuisine reflects the bounties obtained from the sea, which include a great variety of fish and shellfish.  These seafood dishes, often prepared with sauces such as tomato, olive and capers reflect the European influence.  Sounds like wine-friendly dishes to me.  Much like Chinese food (Mandarin, Szechwan and Cantonese), Mexico has a wide range of regional styles steeped in history. Mexican food has a great history, and has been greatly influenced by the Spanish.  Back in the 15th Century, when the Spanish explorers arrived, the two cultures clashed, especially the food.   The indigenous people of Mexico utilized tropical fruits and herbs, hot chilies, sweet potatoes, avocados, and turkeys, and of course, the staples of corn and frijoles (beans).  Conversely, the Spanish brought domestic meats and poultry, cheese, wheat, sugar cane, wine and of course a Spanish appetite that encourages a substantial cooking style, resulting in a rich, tasty and spicy cuisine.  Nevertheless, after time, the two cultures melted together brining us an amazing cuisine that boasts a wide array of flavors. The more familiar Americanized Mexican food tends to be a more simple style which in some cases does not resemble its homeland origins.  However, you can find more thoughtful restaurateurs in California and around the United States that have created a hybrid style that meshes together many flavors.  Locally, Peppers in Pacific Grove comes to mind.  Their food is wonderful, and they also have an impressive and affordable wine list with wines selling for near retail prices.   For more on this subject, another internet search led me to Jim Peyton’s www.lomexicano.com that specializes in Mexican food, cooking, recipes and restaurant consulting.  I asked Jim about wine with Mexican food.  Jim says regarding wine and Mexican food “Experts (honest) that recommend wine with Mexican food are referring to wine served with Mexico's more upscale dishes. Many of these are from our southern neighbor's version of fusion cooking, alternately called nueva cocina mexicana, nouvelle azteca and la vanguardia.  In this aspect of Mexican cooking, chefs mix and match between Mexico's regional styles, ingredients and techniques and the cuisine's Mexicanized version of French cooking to create aesthetically pleasing dishes that still have the soul-nourishing quality of traditional Mexican cooking.”   Jim adds, “Since even these more refined dishes are often assertive, wine selection is often tricky. I suggest equally assertive wines whose qualities pair with the particular dish. I particularly like Argentine Malbec wines with beef dishes. A good Spanish Rioja is often a good all around choice, as are distinct chardonnays or Sauvignon Blancs.” Since I am in the business of promoting Monterey County wines, I suggest the Mission Trail Malbec, or a soft Merlot like Shale Ridge or perhaps a wine like Chateau Julien Sangiovese.  Or better yet, the J.Lohr Valdeguie, slightly chilled, would be an excellent choice.  And thankfully, most Monterey County whites have abundant supplies of fruit characteristics.  Additionally, they for the most part, are crisp and refreshing.  Do not shy away from the power of the grape.  Wine is versatile just as the food itself.  Wine has its place at a dinner table which serves Mexican food too. Putting The Chill Into Chili If you are going to try your hand at Mexican food preparation and want to serve wine, just try to avoid heat.  The heat sensation that we experience in chilies comes from capsaicin found on the inner membrane of the chili.  Often folks think that if you remove the seeds, you will remove the heat.  The seeds can collect some of the capsaicin, as they are connected to the ribs of the chili.  However, when preparing the chili, a simple filet method will remove the inner membrane, ribs and seeds.  Thus, you will be eliminating much of the heat while leaving an intense and wonderful flavor.  Another suggestion would be to roast the chilies.  Roasting will intensify and bring out the natural sugars of the fruit.

 

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